Anish Kothari

Anish Kothari

Stories, Experiences and Musings

  • How I Became a Local: My Year in India

    • 5 Apr 2011
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    • Looking Back Mumbai Personal
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    Hello again.

    Here's a breakdown of what I've done over the last year.

    March 2010: Mumbai

    • Started work at Citigate Dewe Rogerson India, an investor relations firm located at Nariman Point. On my way to becoming an Excel/PowerPoint expert.
    • Commuted to work by local bus; learned how to read numbers in Marathi (bus information at the front of the bus is written in Marathi; it's in English on the side of the bus).
    • Procured a PAN card, opened a bank account: finally got some official documents to prove that I existed
    • Began eating street food: vada pav, bhel puri, sev puri, sandwiches, etc. So began a love affair with street food!

    April

    • Weekend trip to Lonavla through work
    • Went to a Mumbai Indians IPL match with friends from work
    • Family event at Pune: cousin's mother/father-in-law's 50th anniversary - handled DJ duties for the musical extravaganza
    • Started work in earnest: I was assigned 3 clients with colleagues; work included writing press releases, creating board presentations and I wrote a Chairman's statement in an Annual Report for a big Indian conglomerate

    May

    • Summer begins and I sweat like crazy. Seriously debate climbing 10 flights of stairs every morning.
    • Lost my phone on the bus in the morning commute. Made trips to the bus depot and police station to try to get help - nothing doing.
    • My dad visits me in India; we travel to Bangkok, Thailand and Koh Samui
    • Water shortages led to planned trips to the office bathroom and bucket baths replaced showers.

    June

    • Mango season! Eating fresh Alphonso mangoes (the king of fruits!)
    • The rain begins and it's wonderful at first; the moist earth smells amazing and everything is fresh and clean. Mosquito population increases dramatically.
    • Started looking for a place to rent. I found a place through a friend in Lower Parel in a redeveloped chawl (225 sq. ft. 1BHK: bedroom/hall/kitchen). Everything was ready through an agent but the owner never showed up to make it official. The deal went through; a blessing in disguise.

    July

    • Came down with malaria... it was probably the worst 4 days of my life in recent memory. I thought I was dying: intense fever, sweating, body aches, hallucinations, I was having trouble standing and walking at some stages. Luckily it was over pretty soon and I got back to normal.
    • Moved into my cousin's flat in suburban Mumbai and started commuting by local train. My daily commute went from 1 hour to about 3.5 hours, but it was an excellent experience. I'll write a post about that soon.
    • Ordered tiffin for lunch from Magic-o-Meal. This was really fascinating - I would be informed of that day's menu by SMS by 11am or so and the dabbawala would deliver the tiffin by 1pm and return by 1:30pm for pickup. The plan was to eat or empty the tiffin during this time while the dabbawala would himself have lunch. He would deliver the tiffin on one side of the passageway and pick it up on the other side. If the tiffin remained where he had left it by pickup time, it would not be delivered that day. I would eat with friends - we would open our tiffins (some of them had tiffins delivered from home) and share the contents depending on our tastes; some people would give away their tiffins so they could order fast food.

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  • Shooting into a Corner

    • 29 Dec 2010
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    • Anish Kapoor Art Bandra Mumbai
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    I went to Bandra to visit my friend Ravi and see Anish Kapoor's art exhibition at Mehboob Studios. We had lunch at Candies, a huge place with 4 levels of seating and some cool tile art. Then we went to see the art. It was held in this big  at a film studio, which made for a very interesting experience. There were several enormous mirrors that were either concave/convex and a really fascinating one that was broken into small pieces like a puzzle. There was an awesome cannon from which a man would shoot a tub of wax onto a wall every 15 minutes. Here's a video of this in Vienna. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed so I can't show you the rest of what I saw... see it for yourself if you can! We had a drink at the canteen and then went for a walk on Bandra Bandstand and Bandra Fort.

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    shooting-into-a-corner-yIbipdlcidxflyunFhyB.zip (312 KB)

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  • The Humble Rs. 25 Ticket

    • 25 Dec 2010
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    • BEST Mumbai Pay it Forward Personal
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    I frequently travel by BEST bus in Mumbai. It's easy, cheap, convienent, and efficient. If I'm going to be stuck in traffic, I find little reason to pay extra to sit in a taxi or auto and watch the meter go up, up, and away. So for Rs. 25, I can purchase an all-day bus pass for travel anywhere in Mumbai. When I have to do extended traveling by bus I purchase this ticket and when I go to Juhu Beach to play ultimate frisbee on weekends, I buy this ticket too, even though I could buy 2 single tickets for Rs.12 each. Here's why:

    A couple of months ago, I was going home to the suburbs after eating dinner at my cousin's place in South Mumbai. I was waiting for a bus to the station when a guy about my age stopped in front of me and took off the back cover of his mobile phone. I had no idea what he was doing, so I took a step back. Then he took off his headphones and handed me a bus ticket and told me to take it. I refused at first because I didn't know why he was giving it to me. So I asked him what it was, he explained it that it was an unlimited ticket and walked off before I could thank him. I was grateful because it meant that I wouldn't have to hunt for change or break a Rs. 50 note (I'm perpetually short on small notes and change). Then I boarded a bus to Grant Road station to go home.

    On reaching the bus stop near the station, I saw a passenger hand his ticket to a man waiting for a bus . I paused and wondered: is this really happening? Then I followed suit and passed along my ticket to the friend of the man who had just received a ticket. They both looked at each other as if they had won the lottery. The receipient of my ticket smiled and said a very genuine ''thank you''. I smiled back and walked toward the station, scratching my head. I wondered if it was normal for people to do this - I'd certainly never come across anything like this before.

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  • Walkeshwar Days

    • 23 Dec 2010
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    • Family Mumbai Walkeshwar
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    I visited my cousin in Walkeshwar yesterday to see my nieces and nephews, 2 of whom are visiting from Bangkok. I've seen them grow up so I really like spending time with them.

    I rented bicycles for them and they rode them around their building. The little boy in the video is my 7-year-old nephew Raj. The other boy Anjal lives in the same building.

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    Raj_Cycling.wmv (17.71 MB)
    After dinner, we played Ghulam Chor (literally Jack Thief), a kids' card game. Remove 1 Jack and deal the cards. The players have to remove all pairs of cards and then take turns pulling 1 card until no pairs remain. The person with the Jack at the end loses. My two nephews, Raj and Sarthak, are the same age and had a lot of fun. My niece Rajvi was busy coloring cups with a highlighter.
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    walkeshwar-days-uacBqlAIjlfxsxtwfvrG.zip (131 KB)

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  • 2010: My Year in Review

    • 23 Dec 2010
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    • 2010 Jaipur Looking Back Mumbai Travel
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    I came to India in September 2009 which is where I want to start reviewing 2010, the first full year I've spent in India.

    Let me explain. I'm from the United States (Chicagoland). My parents were born in India. I was born in the USA. 25 years later, I came to live in India. I was frustrated by the lifestyle, the economy and was not optimistic about my future in the USA. I wanted to be with family and to experience India's economic growth, I wanted to speak Hindi and I wanted to travel. I wanted to be Indian.

    So in the remaining 9 days of the year I want to recount the year, month-by-month. This first post is from my arrival date in September to the beginning of the 2010.

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  • About

    Indian-American. These are the stories that define me.

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  • Sites I Like

    • India's stepchildren, making their own way home - The New York Times
    • Our Delhi Struggle | Two New Yorkers move to New Delhi. See what happens…
    • neoindian.org - Confessions of a newly returned Indian
    • Amreekan Desi - Once a Desi. Always a Desi.
    • The Chronicles of an ABCD
    • Either Here or There